I had a magnificent opportunity to spend a week an this amazing location this past July (2014). Of all the places I’ve ever been this one exceeded the hype in all possible ways. I had long admired Tom Mangelsen’s images from Brooks, but had always considered it one of those places that was beyond reach, for me. The most un-nerving experience, for me, was getting off the float plane as we first arrived. The pilot, baggage handler, guide, steward, co-pilot (all the same guy) began to quickly herd us off the beach. Fifty yards up the beach were two of the largest bears I had ever seen. The first stopping spot for us was a 20 minute lecture on bear etiquette. This was inside the “visitor’s center”. As the lecture was proceeding, bears were constantly wandering around outside and easily visible through the center’s windows. If anything, these were even larger than those we had fled on the beach. We were then directed to our campsite which was about two hundred yards down the beach. There was a nice trail to the campground, but we were told a bear had elected the path for a morning nap. Walking the beach was also not an option, as the bears there were not asleep. Our first adventure was taking a little used “bear” trail to the campground. Luckily around the campground, there is an electrified fence, which, as explained to us, may or may not discourage a bear intent on entering that area. The fence, I assumed, would prevent me from exiting the campground execute though the three available gates. As my stay progressed I found that my respect for the bears increased. They are very impressive creatures. But, my fear decreased. At Brooks, at least, they have not come to associate humans with food. To me, it seemed we were about as interesting as a magpie. There was no doubt that if need be, they would swat a human down if provoked, so my entire focus while there was to not provoke any of the bears.
The first image is my tribute to Tom Manglesen’s iconic photo from Brooks. I think his image is the one that most bring to mind when thinking of Coastal Brown Bears in Alaska. My respect for his images grew as I tried to capture this one. I had all the advantages of the digital age. He shot his with film. That is unimaginable to me.
Here’s Dinner
This bear found itself in a race with a Sockeye salmon. I think in this particular case the salmon won.
The Race is On
This bear was the dominant bear at the falls, while I was there. I understand that varies with which bears are present, and that at times others would take the lead role.
Jacuzzi Bear
The following image was the result of, what I thought, an incredibly complex social interaction. This young female had approached the falls with the intent to fish. Jacuzzi bear, above, decided that she should not fish that day. He forced her onto this rock and intimidated her into staying there for about five hours. If she so much as put a toe in the water, he would scold her. Eventually, Jacuzzi Bear left the area and she went about her business catching salmon.
Sittin’ on a Rock in the Bay